Portugal day 5: Peneda Geres National Park.

Submitted by maria on Sun, 13/09/2020 - 20:34

We leave early today and want to go through the western part of the Park and get to sleep in Porto.

We take the road to Geres, here we turn off on the M533 which runs through the upper part of the Park in the direction of Campo do Geres.

 

Views of albufeira

Views of albufeira

 

The views of the Albufeira and the part of the Park we visited yesterday are impressive. There are several viewpoints, we stopped at the Miradouro Mirante Velho, a must.

The road is narrow and winding and winds through the mountains. The environment is beautiful. We take the N 307 towards Campo do Geres, we continue until the dam of the river Homem. What a beautiful area, we have to return to inspect it more thoroughly.

 

 

 

Espigueiros

Espigueiros in Brufe

 

 

Between the N307 and the N308 is the most protected area of the Park and access is limited especially in the summer months when you have to pay a fee depending on the vehicle you use.

We continue to Brufe on the CM1349, a beautiful village, and then on the CM1348 to Germil, a small village with cobbled streets, with several spikes and vines in all the houses.

 

Germil

Germil

 

Germil

Germil

 

 

The espigueiros are what we know here as granaries but they are made of stone. They served to dry the grain and were built in stone with lateral holes so that the air could pass through. As they were elevated, the animals could not enter to eat the grain.

 

Pelourinho

Pelourinho

 

 

Leaving Germil you can see a spectacular valley with a cobbled road. Continue to the N203 towards Lindoso, but at Paradamonte turn onto the M530 towards Soajo. Right on the bridge over the Lima River you can see the remains where the first large hydroelectric plant was built in 1920. The workers known as barragistas lived in neighbourhoods with facilities inaccessible to most of the region's inhabitants such as a swimming pool, cinema or library.

 

Hidroelectric plant

Hidroelectric plant

 

 

We continue to Soajo, a town very famous for its espigueiros but with much more to see.


It is very hot and we have a drink at the Casa do Povo. They have a very shady terrace. We are surprised by a table where they are roasting chorizos with aguardiente. In this area it is common to see some clay containers with a grill also made of clay, you put the sausage on top and water it with eau-de-vie that is then burned.

 

Casa do Povo

Casa do Povo

 

 

We visit the espigueiros. They attract a lot of attention because there are about twenty of them all together on some rocks on a hill. These stone barns are in perfect condition and you can enjoy beautiful views. It is worth it.

 

Espigueiros in Soajo

Espigueiros in Soajo

 

Espigueiros in Soajo

Espigueiros in Soajo

 

 

We return to the centre of the village and walk through it, narrow streets, stone houses. The neighbours are coming out of the church for mass, there are several women dressed in mourning with the typical handkerchiefs and skirts of the area. They are very nice.

 

Woman in Soajo

Woman in Soajo

 

Square in Soajo

Square in Soajo

 

 

They have a pelourinho in the middle of the town hall square. You can also visit the medieval bridge and the black well, a beautiful pond with a waterfall.

We buy heather honey from a fellow countryman for 10€/kg.

 

Soajo

Soajo

 

Church in Soajo

Church in Soajo

 

We take the N202 to the Porta do Mezio Park, we want to visit the megalithic nucleus. In the Park there is a wooded area with tables to eat, a bar, ponds and an interpretation centre of the area.

 

Mamoas

Mamoas

 

 

The megalithic nucleus consists of some Mamoas, Neolithic funeral constructions with a dolmen, considered to be one of the most important rock groups in the northwest of the peninsula.

 

Mamoas

Mamoas

 

 

The views are very cool, you can see the whole mountain range. We also notice that there is a huge forest fire on the border with Spain, which is a pity.

 

Fire

Fire

 

 

We continue, next stop Ponte do Lima.

Ponte do Lima is located on the banks of the Lima River and on weekends it's crazy because of the amount of people who visit it.

 

Medieval bridge

Medieval bridge

 

Medieval bridge

Medieval bridge

 

Church of Santo Antonio da Torre Velha

Church of Santo Antonio da Torre Velha

 

Chapel do Anjo do Guarda

Chapel do Anjo do Guarda

 

 

Its medieval bridge (of Roman origin) with 31 arches over the river stands out. It's worth going to the other end where there is the Church of Santo Antonio da Torre Velha, the Capela do Anjo da Guarda, the Toy Museum and the Arnado Theme Park with fantastic gardens.

 

Roman legion

Roman legion

 

 

A Roman legion guards the town on the river bank. The bank becomes a large car park to accommodate the large number of tourists visiting the city.

 

Roman legion

Roman legion

 

 

Near the river, two sculptures stand out, one in Memory of the Countryside and the other an allegory to Feiras Novas and Folklore. From here you can walk to the Caminho dos Plátanos, which is full of stalls where the trees form a natural arch.

 

Memory of the Countryside

Memory of the Countryside

 

Caminho dos Platanos

Caminho dos Platanos

 

Feiras Novan and Folklore

Feiras Novas and Folklore

 

Ponte do Lima

Ponte do Lima

 

 

The old town is also worth a visit, its lively streets full of cafés and cake shops. Be sure to visit Chafariz do Largo de Camoes (square near the bridge), the Sao Paulo Tower (with a very curious tile), the Ponte do Lima Mother Church, the Paco do Marqués and the Cadeia Velha Tower, which was once a prison.

 

Mother church

Mother church

 

 

We sit on a terrace and indulge in a sweet treat at Maria Rosa Panqueque. Delicious.

 

Panqueque

Panqueque

 

 

We bought bread at Panilimia Padaria-Pastelaria.

We take the car again to reach our final destination, Porto. We avoid the toll roads and it's a mistake, there is so much traffic and so many towns joined together that it takes us almost twice as long to get there.

 

Ponte do Lima

Ponte do Lima

 

 

Already tired, we arrived in the centre of Porto. We stayed in a flat through Booking on Rua Sampaio Bruno. It's a pedestrian street but there's a 30-minute courtesy area on the nearby Avenida dos Aliados, so we take our backpacks to the flat and the guy points out an inexpensive car park nearby.

 

Ponte do Lima

Ponte do Lima

 

 


The car park is about a ten minute walk away, is guarded and looks good. We go into a Pingo Doce (a Portuguese supermarket chain, highly recommended) to buy dinner and breakfast.


The flat is very well located. We have a huge terrace shared with another neighbour. It has a bedroom-living room, kitchen and bathroom, and free wifi.


Casa do Povo in Soajo: Coca-Cola de tercio and tercio de superbock 2,40€.
Craft shop: plaza de Soajo magnets at 2€.
Visit Mamoas en Mezio for free.
Panilimia Padaria-Pastelaria in Ponte do Lima: 2 small breads. 1 rye and 1 wholemeal 70 cents.
Maria Rosa Pancake: pancake, lemonade and coffee for 7€.
Accommodation: flat Sky Guest House Allies 99.33€ three nights two pax (includes tourist tax of 2 euros/pax)
Parking: Central Parking Park at Rua da Alegria 35, 9€ 24 hours.