Portugal day 12: Lisbon. | Perfect Planet

Submitted by maria on Sun, 20/09/2020 - 19:44

After breakfast at the flat we walked to Praça do Comercio. It takes about twenty minutes to walk there.

It is Sunday and there is a small artisan market in the arcades of the square. We look around while waiting for tram number 15 to take us to the Jerónimos Monastery. The tram is paid for in a machine in the carriage itself; it does not accept twenty-euro tickets. It takes almost half an hour.

Jerónimos Monastery

The Mosteiro dos Jerónimos is the main attraction of the Belém neighbourhood, and no wonder. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the façades, the church and, above all, the Manueline-style cloisters stand out. The wealth of details, especially the cloisters, of this impressive 16th-century architectural ensemble make this visit a must if you come to the city. Don't miss it.

Cloister

Detail

Cloister

During the service it is not possible to visit the church which houses the tombs of Vasco de Gama and Luís de Camoes, so we see a glimpse of it from the upper cloister but we are left with the desire to explore it.

Tombs

Jerónimos Monastery

Church

We stop for a coffee and a cream pastry at the legendary Pastéis de Belém. Totally recommended, the coffee and pastries are delicious, the best we've ever tasted and the place is a knockout. You can buy to take away or eat in the café.

Preparation of Belém pastries

Belém pastries

Paséis de Belem shop

Next stop is the Belém Tower. We have visited the Jerónimos Monastery before to avoid the crowds but we recommend you get off the tram at the Tower stop and then walk back to the Monastery.

Belém Tower

The Belém Tower is located on the banks of the Tajo. Initially it was a defensive tower to later become one of the lighthouses of the city. It is Manueline style and has an access walkway. The entrance fee is 6€ per person but we did not go inside. Too many people.

Monument to the discoveries

We walk back and enjoy the Belém neighborhood, we see the pastel pink Belem Palace. Almost opposite the National Museum of Cars, the Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology and a little further on the Lisbon Congress Center and the spectacular 25 April Bridge.

National Muesum of Cars

Belém

We arrived at LX Factory, a mind-blowing and alternative market located in a former industrial complex where you can find trendy cafes, art galleries and even amazing bookstores like the Ler Devagar bookshop, which preserves inside an old printing press, a suspended bicycle, two bars and thousands of books.

LX Factory

The atmosphere in this area is almost magical, creative spaces, buildings decorated with curious sculptures, cafés with cool terraces (although drinks are at European prices), a decadent and avant-garde air that pervades the city. A must.

LX Factory

Ler Devagar bookshop

LX Factory

After browsing around the area and having a good beer, we walk to Largo do Santos, where we stop for lunch at the Túnel de Santos restaurant. We eat à la carte and everything is delicious. Grilled fish with potatoes, salad and local wine.

After lunch, we stroll through Santa Catarina until we reach Estrela, to the west of the Upper district. Here you will find the Basilica da Estrela and the Museu da Marioneta. There are several atmospheric cafés and restaurants.

Upper district

Rua Verde

Upper district

We climb the steep slopes that lead us to the Upper district and visit the Miradouro de Santa Catarina with the statue of Adamastor, a mythological giant from one of Luis Camoes' works. Bohemian atmosphere with spectacular views. Not to be missed.

Views from Santa Catarina viewpoint

There is a kiosk for a drink. At the top is the Pharmacy Museum, a spectacular mansion with historical instruments and objects, which houses the Pharmacia restaurant, very famous in Lisbon.

Pharmacy Museum

You can access the viewpoint with the Bica elevator, which is free 24 hours a day.

We continue to the Miradouro do Sao Pedro de Alcántara, which offers a spectacular view of the Alfama district. Not to be missed.

Views from Sao Pedro de Alcántara viewpoint

In the adjoining Rua das Taipas, street art in its purest form. We walked to the Sao Roque Church Museum but did not go inside.

Rua das Taipas

We walk to Chafariz do Carmo. The Convento do Carmo stands imposing. It was razed to the ground by an earthquake but its ruined pillars and arches are still standing. It houses the Archaeological Museum.

Chafariz do Carmo

Convento do Carmo

We rested on the terrace of a kiosk in Chafariz do Carmo, a common sight in Lisbon's squares.

Chiado

Santa Justa lift

We are defeated and we go back to the flat, crossing Rossio square. We stop at a mythical place called A Ginjinha to drink one of Lisbon's specialities, a ginjiha, a cherry liqueur very typical of the city. Very tasty.

A Ginjinha

The Sao Domingos square is crowded with people, they have a flea market where they sell a bit of everything, second or fourth hand. Curious.

We go back to the flat, we have earned a good dinner.

Tram ticket from Plaza del Comercio to Jerónimos Monastery: 3€/pax.
Entrance Mosteiro dos Jerónimos: 10€/pax.
Fabrica de pasteles de Belém: Coffee and cakes 16,75€/6 pax.
Bar LX Factory: 10,40€ 6 beers in terrace of 20 cl.
Restaurant Túnel de Santos: 72,25€ 6 pax.
Kiosk terrace Chafariz do Carmo: 2,5€/beer 1/3.
Shopping at the supermarket: 14€.
Accommodation: Apartment Altido for 6 pax 128€/day (21€/pax).

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