Nepal day 19: Indra Jatra

Submitted by maria on Fri, 15/12/2023 - 12:01

Today, 28 September, Indra Jatra is celebrated in the Kathmandu Valley, commemorating the end of the monsoon.

Bids

Bhaktapur and Patan also celebrate but the most important festival is in Kathmandu. So we return to the capital for a few hours to enjoy the festive atmosphere.

Kathmandu

We had breakfast at the hotel, eggs with toast and potato stew with black tea, very tasty.

How to get from Bhaktapur to Kathmandu

To catch the bus we go out to the main road to Nagarkot next to the Bhaktapur Metropolitan City Office of Municipal Executive next to the taxi stand. The bus takes us to Ratna Park in Kathmandu, 50 rupees/pax/way.

In about forty minutes we arrive at Ratna Park, from here it is about a ten minute walk to Thamel.

Bus

The main attraction of the Indra Jatra festival is the chariot procession, in which the Kumari (the living goddess) is the main character, and masked dancers represent the deities Indra and Bhairava, always accompanied by troupes.

Chariot

The Kumari rides out of her palace on a palanquin pulled by dozens of people. She is accompanied by two other girls in their own palanquins, representing Indra and Bhairava, while the crowd cheers and applauds.

Kathmandu

For several days, the city's main temples are decorated and butter lamps are lit.

Durbar Square

Legend has it that the young Indra (Hindu god) disguised as a peasant, descended to earth in search of parijat, a white flower so that his mother Basundhara could perform a ritual. When he was plucking the flowers, the people who caught him tied him up and put him in the village square of Manu in Kathmandu. You can see this image also in other different parts of the city during the festival. His mother, worried about his long absence, went to the ground to look for him. This part of the festival is known as the Dagin procession.

When the people in the town realised who they had actually captured, they were horrified and immediately released him. As thanks for the release of his son, Basundhara promised sufficient dew throughout the winter to ensure a rich harvest.

In Kathmandu's Durbar Square you can see the image of Bhairava completely free of the fence that protects him for the rest of the year. Everywhere there is chanting, offerings are made and music is played.

Swet Bhairav

Remember that to enter the square you have to pay the entrance fee, that's why it's interesting to get a multiple ticket, we tell you how here.

We arrived too early at Durbar Square and had to wait several hours to enjoy the madness of Indra Jatra. The best (and safest) way to see it is from the rooftop of a restaurant.

Indra Jatra

We ate at Heritage rooftop cafe, American chopsuey, fried chicken, two soft drinks, two waters and a tea 2,065 rupees. A bit pricey but the view was worth it.

Thousands of people gather in Durbar Square in front of the Kumari Palace, there is not room for a single pin.

The main Nepalese authorities stand in front of the museum. They acclaim the mayor more than the president of the country. Curious.

At 4pm the Kumari leaves the palace and is carried on the shoulders of a palanquin pulled by about ten people. The procession begins, followed by thousands of fervent devotees. It is a madness and an experience that will last well into the night.

Indra Jatra

It is quite difficult to get out of the square and the floats have already left by another street.

We return to Ratna park to catch the bus back to Bhaktapur. The people are very friendly and although it is very crowded we make friends.

Indra Jatra

Back in quiet Bhaktapur we dined at another restaurant in a beautiful courtyard, Dugansali Newa Suli, a bara (mashed potato and egg) and two chatamari (pizzas), beer and tea for 1,100 rupees. The place is beautiful and the food is very tasty, although quite spicy.