Today's stage takes us from Gorakshep (5,167m) to Kala Pathar (5,550m), return to Gorakshep (5,167m) and descent to Periche (4,265m).
Everest and Nuptse
Many people climb Kala Pathar at night, at sunrise or to watch the sunset, so remember to take plenty of warm clothes (feather down, warm hat, hat, winter gloves) and water as temperatures at that time of day can drop to minus 15 degrees Celsius. Don't forget your headlamp.
We went up to see the sunrise and although it was not a very cold or windy day, it snowed at the summit and we had to put on an extra layer.
Itinerary: (5,167 metres) - Lobuche - Periche (4,265 metres)Gorakshep (5,167 metres) - Kala Pathar ( 5,550 metres) - Gorakshep (4,934 metres)
Distance: 17 kms
Duration: 10 hours
Linear route
Difference in altitude: 600 meters positive difference in altitude, 1.200 meters negative difference in altitude.
Tips for good acclimatisation. Good acclimatisation is achieved by drinking plenty of water, walking slowly without getting tired, not climbing more than 500 metres per stage above 3,400 metres and always sleeping below the maximum altitude you have reached that day.
Always remember to take enough water with you, as it takes at least half an hour for the pill to take effect. Sun cream with full protection is essential. Batteries run down in the cold, so put them inside your sleeping bag.
Map
It is 4 o'clock in the morning and without breakfast we are getting ready to start our ascent to Kala Pathar at 5,550 metres.
I have had a horrible night, I don't know if I will have slept 4 hours, and all because of the excitement of reaching the summit in such a special place where we will be able to see Everest in all its splendour. I'm not sure if I have a headache or not, just in case I take a painkiller.
Sonam comes to pick us up at the room on time, and I tell him about my little night, he tells me not to worry about taking a painkiller and we'll see.
Dawn is breaking
We begin our stage. Like us, dozens of people are coming up today to see the sunrise at Kala Pathar.
We cross the ancient lagoon to reach the signpost that leads us to a well-marked path, so we can't miss it.
We start to climb slowly, as Sonam indicates, making several stops to drink water.
Views
Little by little we advance in the darkness, we only see the lights of the headlamps, an interrupted row of lights.
The ascent is very slow but step by step we make more than half of the route and it starts to get light. The sky is completely overcast and not a drop of air blows.
Kala Pathar
It starts to snow, huge flakes. We make it to the top, being careful not to slip on the last part. Ten minutes later a clearing opens up between the clouds and Nuptse and Everest emerge like giants.
Everest and Nuptse
I have no words to describe what we feel, a huge emotion, the satisfaction of a dream fulfilled. To celebrate, Sonam plays music for us and we start to dance in ecstasy at such beauty. From here we can see the Pumori base camp.
Fifteen minutes later it is covered again and we start our descent. We share some energy bars with Sonam to replenish our strength.
Nuptse
Everest and Nuptse
Everest and Nuptse
We meet the Americans again, who are climbing halfway up to catch the helicopter back to Kathmandu.
In Gorakshep, Chiiring is waiting for us. Now it's time for breakfast, we have earned it (the porters and guides don't eat until their clients have eaten). We have a well-deserved breakfast of eggs with toast and black tea.
Gorakshep
We have to buy a bottle of water for the road because we don't get a free refill any more. The shortage of drinking water is a problem in Gorakshep, the fountains are not enough for everyone.
We set off on our walk again, very happy with a job well done.On the way back, in the landslide area we have to wait about ten minutes to get through. There are a lot of people climbing Gorakshep today and we have to be patient. Almost all of them are Indians, according to Sonam, many of them do the outward trek but the return trip is done by helicopter.
Signal
To penalise this type of practice, the Nepalese government has imposed restrictions, so that if it is not a helicopter for emergency or cargo transport, only two passengers are allowed per trip, who must pay the full cost of the flight, which is around €6,000.
We are of the opinion that a trek is not over until you reach the starting point by your own means.
Helicopters (or mountain taxis as they say in Nepal) are essential means of transport as they can save lives, their misuse is not only a problem of pollution, but also impoverishes the lives of local families who see how their income decreases due to their use by some travellers.
The sound of the helicopter is a constant feature of the trek, especially on clear days.
Rush hour
We continue on our way to Lobuche. Today my digestion is getting heavy and we are already descending. We meet the newlyweds, he is feeling pretty bad and so is his guide, let's hope he recovers soon.
We arrive at the memorial and take a last rest until our next stop in Dughla for lunch at Thukla Kala Pathar lodge, noodles and rice with egg and vegetables and ginger tea.
While we are resting Maria and Sergio arrive and stop for lunch. Today they have gone to the EBC and the weather has respected them.
Return to Lobuche
We resume our walk, there are only a few kilometres left to reach Periche. We cross the bridge again but this time we take the path on the right to go along the valley next to the river. It is extremely windy. We have to wrap up warm.
Nuptse
Near Periche, dozens of yaks graze freely.
Yak
Periche is a small town characterised by its windy weather. Here the mobile data already works perfectly and we communicate with our families after 3 days.
In Periche we stayed at the Periche Resort, which has a very comfortable lounge where we rested with a cup of tea. Our room is basic and painted all in pink, including the ceiling. The shared bathroom is at the beginning of the corridor and the toilet is at the entrance of the hostel.
Sonam tells us that Sergio and Maria are in Panorama lodge and we go over. Miguel sleeps today in Dingboche.
At Panorama lodge we watch a documentary about the first ascent of Mount Everest. Very interesting, we get excited, we have just been there.
Yaks
We return to our lodge for dinner, Chiiring had gone in search of us, what a fog.
At 7 pm we had dinner. Tomato soup and fried noodles and momos. Delicious.
Momos
After chatting for a while in front of the cooker Chiiring starts his practice with a meeting about tomorrow's itinerary. He is going to be a great guide.
Breakfast at Gorakshep at Everest Inn, included Lunch at Thukla Kala Pathar lodge, included, noodles and rice with egg and vegetables with ginger Dughla tea.
Lunch at Thukla Kala Pathar lodge, including noodles and rice with vegetables and egg with ginger Dughla tea.
Dinner at Periche at Periche Resort, inclusive, tomato soup and fried noodles and momos
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