Today's trek takes us from Lobuche (4,934m) to Gorakshep (5,167m), from here to Everest Base Camp (5,250m) and back to Gorakshep (5,167m).
Lobuche
Itinerary: Lobuche - Gorakshep - EBC - Gorakshep
Distance: 13 kms
Duration: 7,5 hours
Linear route
Elevation gain: 600 metres
Tips for good acclimatisation. Good acclimatisation is achieved by drinking plenty of water, walking slowly without getting tired, not climbing more than 500 metres per stage above 3,400 metres and always sleeping below the maximum altitude you have reached that day.
Always remember to take enough water with you, as it takes at least half an hour for the pill to take effect. Sun cream with full protection is essential. Batteries run down in the cold, so put them inside your sleeping bag.
Map
It's 6 am, a spectacular day is dawning, it's finally completely clear and we can enjoy the mountains in full. The views of the Nuptse are breathtaking. Today is going to be a long and hard day but with a great reward.
Nuptse
On the other hand, we woke up worried, Joaquín has had a bad night and has hardly slept, he has sweated a lot and has bags under his eyes. He has a slight headache.
We go to have breakfast and when Sonam sees Joaquín she tells him that today you have to start taking Diamox. Sleeping less than 4 hours, headache, excessive sweating at night and swelling in the face are unmistakable symptoms of altitude sickness, although they are mild we can't risk them getting more complicated, so Joaquín takes the dreaded pill.
Pumori
At 6.30 a.m. we leave Lobuche for Gorakshep, wrapped up warm. Joaquin is feeling better, the medicine seems to be helping him.
Way to Gorakshep
The path is simple, passing through a valley flanked by an imposing Nuptse and a spectacular Pumori that leaves you open-mouthed. The scenery becomes increasingly beautiful and rugged.
Pumori
Nuptse
Step by step we cross the valley until we reach a small pass that is quite difficult to climb. Here we meet Sergio and María, and we stop to enjoy the spectacular views that today's day offers us.
Pumori
We continue slowly, the path becomes narrower and more complex, with a gentle ascent, parallel to the Khumbu glacier and even crossing its very rocky side moraine in continuous movement. Chiiring probably says that in a few weeks we will have to take another path because this one has collapsed.
Khumbu glacier
The sound of ice and falling rocks reverberates throughout the valley.
Glaciar del Khumbu
In this very narrow area you also have to share the space with the herds of animals, it is a complicated area where it is better not to stop.
Gorakshep
After this stretch we reach Gorakshep.
Gorakshep is a small village next to the Khumbu glacier, mostly made up of lodges. We stayed at Everest Inn. It is the simplest of all the lodges we have stayed in. Only one working toilet per floor. It is really very cold.
Nuptse from Gorakshep
Joaquín scares me by saying that his limbs are tingling, but Sonam reassures us that these are side effects of the diamox.
Way to EBC
Gorakshep is surrounded by some speechless mountains, Nuptse, Pumori and many others that I can't even remember the name of.
Way to EBC
Sonam replenishes our water bottles.
We eat some noodles with vegetables and ginger tea to replenish our strength. Joaquín is feeling better and after resting for a while, we empty our backpacks to start our way to the EBC. On this occasion Chiiring also accompanies us, he is a bit worried about Joaquín and we thank him for that.
The porters are not obliged to accompany you on the acclimatisation days. Chiiring is training to be a mountain guide and it serves as training for him. He is going to be an excellent guide.
Way to EBC
To get to the EBC you have to walk about 3 kilometres starting in a very deserted area next to Gorakshep. It is a dry lake that lost all its water in the 2015 earthquake, a fissure opened up and it emptied.
The path to the EBC is straightforward and narrow, always parallel to the Khumbu glacier. It is a continuous up and down that sometimes crosses areas of landslides.
Way to EBC
Imposing mountains surround us, impossible glaciers suspended almost vertically from their slopes. We reach a point from where we once again enjoy the summit of Everest (8,848 metres) next to the Nuptse. Although it is getting cloudy, the weather is respecting us.
Almost three hours later we can see our goal, the EBC.
EBC
We descend to the glacier covered by rocks until we reach the stone that confirms that we are at Everest Base Camp. We cried with emotion and hugged each other, after a hard year of injuries and a lot of effort, here we are, in the most emblematic place of any expedition that wants to reach this extraordinary colossus.
We remember a lot of our nephews, in particular Aaron, who days before starting this trip reviewed with us the trekking with a map he has of the Sagarmatha Park and told us, it will be hard but send us the photo!
EBC
After tears of joy and emotion, we take the obligatory photo with our dear companions Sonam and Chiiring, to whom we are enormously grateful.
For a few minutes we walk around the area, still very emotional.
EBC
The feeling of peace and, strangely enough, solitude (even though we are surrounded by people) fills us, how wonderful to be here.
Suddenly we turn around and see a couple changing their clothes. They have just got married and to celebrate they take photos of themselves next to the big rock before the attentive eyes of everyone, while we shout "long live the bride and groom! Amazing moments that the mountain and Nepal give you. I still get emotional writing these words today.
EBC Wedding
Half an hour later we start our way back. We meet Miguel who is not feeling well and we give him some pills for altitude sickness just in case. He has just climbed Kala Pathar and is arriving at the EBC on the same day in case he gets up worse tomorrow, what a beating he is taking today!
Way to Kala Pathar
Still smiling, we return to Gorakshep. We have mint tea at our lodge.
The internet seems to be working sporadically and although they have a wifi service, you can't be sure it will work. Just in case we text Sergio and Maria to meet us and Miguel at the Buddha lodge.
We have an infu with Miguel who is already feeling better, it's warm in the lounge, it's very pleasant. Just as we are leaving Sergio arrives, they have also climbed Kala Pathar this afternoon, he says it is impressive, the best part of the trek, what an experience.
The sunset in Gorakshep is impressive, the orange rays of the sun illuminate the surrounding mountains, how marvellous.
Sunset at Gorakshep
We had dinner at 6.30 pm, a little soup each to warm us up. In spite of being next to the cooker, the cold is noticeable.
Tomorrow we meet Sonam at 4 am to go up to Kala Pathar, we go to bed early.
Breakfast in Lobuche at Himalaya Eco Resort, including toast and fried eggs with black tea.
Accommodation, lunch and dinner in Gorakshep at Everest Inn, included.
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